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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.